LS5000 von Bobby

[yogi]

Was hast du an dem Scanner umgebaut?

[Jossie]

Bobby hat diese Frage wohl übersehen. Daher von mir der Hinweis auf seinen Bericht.

Hermann-Josef

[Bobby]

Hermann-Josef, Danke für die Unterstützung. Ich habe die nächsten 3 Wochen nur rudimentären Internetzugang und nur via Tablet. Danke für die Hilfe.

[dstrm]

Hello,

I'm currently in contact with Eureca about doing the same modification and would love to hear more specifics about how you went about it, Bobby. What exactly did you send them, the entire scanner or just the board? Did you give specific instructions to Eureca or did they decide which processes was appropriate or necessary? I think I'm fine with the risk involved with the actual sensor modification, but the process of taking the scanner apart completely on my own seems a little daunting, not to mention being able to put it back together in a working state.

Best regards,
Martin

[Bobby]

Martin,

I am very sorry that my response is awfully late. But for some reason I did not get any notification from ScanDig that there were new questions. I hope that my answer is still useful.

I sent only the CCD board to Eureka, see the attached photos. They are highly professionals and know whatever is necessary to do.

For disassembly (and re-assemby) you find good information on the shtengel Website (https://www.shtengel.com/gleb/Nikon_coo ... 0_5000.htm). On the photo below, you find the CCD board approximately in the center, a bit above the white wheel. For removing the board you need a very fine hex screwdriver. To get access for the screwdriver to the board, you must first remove the power supply (to the right in the picture) first which goes very easy.

Before inserting the updated CCD, be sure to wipe off any dust, otherwise you may get unwanted shadows on your scans. There are special CCD cleaning kits available in the internet (alcohol and lint-free soft pads)

Reassembly goes the opposite way for the exception that you may need some trials to get the CCD board straight in line and on the right place, as the scanner does not provide fixed points to click in. Needs time and patience.

Don't be afraid to do this, once done it seems quite easy. It also helps you to get to know your sacnner.

The 2 other photos are from the scanner board, with the cable still attached (remove before sending it to Eureka, they have no use for it).

[dstrm]

Bobby,

Thank you so much for your response, regardless of delay.

I haven't moved forward with the procedure as of yet, but your help is indeed inspiring confidence. I have been enough bothered by the ghosting in the past to where I'm now reluctant to move forward with some digitization projects that contain a lot of slides. I have other scanners, but none that can handle the load of the Coolscan 5000 with a SF-210. If the operation is successful (Eureca claims 80% success rate – I'd prefer it to be 99%!) I'll have little more to ask for in my 35 mm scanning life.

Doing the disassembly and reassembly feels a little scary, but as you point out being familiar with the inner workings of the machine helps in the long run. Nikon won't touch these machines anymore, and cleaning out the mirror needs doing from time to time anyway. Worst case scenario, I can probably enlist some help locally to put the machine back together.

I happen to have two machines, and I'm now mulling over just doing them both at once...

[Archiloque]

Bobby,

Thank you so much for your response, regardless of delay.

I haven't moved forward with the procedure as of yet, but your help is indeed inspiring confidence. I have been enough bothered by the ghosting in the past to where I'm now reluctant to move forward with some digitization projects that contain a lot of slides. I have other scanners, but none that can handle the load of the Coolscan 5000 with a SF-210. If the operation is successful (Eureca claims 80% success rate – I'd prefer it to be 99%!) I'll have little more to ask for in my 35 mm scanning life.

Doing the disassembly and reassembly feels a little scary, but as you point out being familiar with the inner workings of the machine helps in the long run. Nikon won't touch these machines anymore, and cleaning out the mirror needs doing from time to time anyway. Worst case scenario, I can probably enlist some help locally to put the machine back together.

I happen to have two machines, and I'm now mulling over just doing them both at once...

You shouldn't be affraid to dissasemble it. It really is straightforward. Be patient and take a lot of pictures.
I am currently in contact with Eureca as well. But for a Minolta 5400. If the procedure is succesful, I might go forward and have my CS5000 done as well. But the minolta is a lot cheaper so, have the sensor wasted wouldn't be too problematic, the 5000 on the other hand...

[dstrm]

Thanks for the feedback.

I haven't used the Minolta 5400 enough to notice flaring issues similar to the Coolscans. In your opinion, are they as bad? I sometimes find the output of the Minoltas a little more pleasing, the level of detail is there but not as harsh as the Coolscans. Depends on the material, I guess.

I'll resume my contacts with Eureca shortly, I'll get them to quote me a price for doing both while I'm at it.

Martin

[Bobby]

Martin,

I happen to have two machines, and I'm now mulling over just doing them both at once..

Doing one after the other has the advantage, that you can stop the action if then first one runs foul. But it has the advantage that they will share the effort of the costly final step of argon filling of the sensor.

Be sure to send it by registered mail. My CCD mailing to Eureka got completely lost, but returned miraculously after 1 month back at my place. Presently I am trying to send a slide to another company in Germany - it is now on the way for more than 4 weeks, 3 weeks hereof supposedly sitting in a DHL distribution center ...

The anti-reflective cover glass for the CCD is costly, but for me it was worth it.

[Archiloque]

Thanks for the feedback.

I haven't used the Minolta 5400 enough to notice flaring issues similar to the Coolscans. In your opinion, are they as bad? I sometimes find the output of the Minoltas a little more pleasing, the level of detail is there but not as harsh as the Coolscans. Depends on the material, I guess.

I'll resume my contacts with Eureca shortly, I'll get them to quote me a price for doing both while I'm at it.

Martin

I think they're on par. Not much difference.

I since learned that the 5400MK2 doesn't flare as much. Its CCD line sensor is supposed to be multicoated. But anyway, got my quote from eureka, 185 euros for a simple glass removal. But i'll have to desolder the ccd from the PCB as they told me the procedure would be risky in case I wanted to send them the whole assembly.

[Bobby]

But anyway, got my quote from eureka, 185 euros for a simple glass removal. But i'll have to desolder the ccd from the PCB as they told me the procedure would be risky in case I wanted to send them the whole assembly.

My total bill from Eureka was roughly 50% of your quoted price for the removal of the glass, another 50% for a new coated glass, another 50% for attaching the new glass and almost your quoted price for argon filling of the sensor, plus 40% for shipping (!), makes in total of 484 Euro, without VAT. Sounds expensive, but was well worth it.

I am not afraid tearing my scanner apart, but would not de-solder the CCD from the board, as you might damage the CCD and will have problems with correctly re-positioning it. Eureka did a good job with mine on the board.